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we are seated in its sunny brick-floored patio, enjoying a crisp Chenin Blanc
and debating lunch: Mussel soup with red coconut curry and coriander, or
baked trout with house-cured bacon?
We share wine-talk with Backen’s partner and beverage director Adam
LaCanigna who, true to trend, selects producers for “sustainability.”
What does that mean exactly – in a restaurant?
“We source local suppliers who practice sustainable farming. These days
there’s a big buzz around the idea. But most classic wine-makers were already
into respecting the land as a matter of course.”
Favorite producers include Mike Grgich and Heidi Barrett. “If one label –
then I would say Mendelson Pinot Noir, a Burgundian style wine.”
As might be expected, the architect was hands-on during construction.
“Howard is detail-obsessive and committed to a smaller footprint.” Such green
features as LED-lighting and piped steam-heating in outdoor seating panels
blend with sleek barn elements and zinc bar surfaces.
An easy stroll from the hotel at suppertime brings us to Bouchon, Michael
Chiarello’s Bottega Ristorante, or Redd, Richard Reddington’s elegant space
for ethnic-inspired dishes. Bouchon and Redd are 2013 Michelin-starred.
At Redd Wood, Reddington’s casual pizzeria, we enjoy white rabbit with
chestnut pappardelle.
Day Two
– Wine Touring
B
risk sunshine next morning calls for a bike ride to check out a winery
or two. Cliff Lede Vineyards is known for its flagship “claret” and the
well-made Breggo wines from Anderson Valley. The winery’s sculpture garden
is a relaxing venue after our ride, where a white heron among the vines pays
us no attention as he scarfs up a snake.
Innovations at the winery include its concrete egg fermentation tanks for
Sauvignon Blanc, a computer driven “eye” from France that sorts the grapes,
and solar panels that will return their investment in seven years. “We’re
already selling power back to PG&E.”
weekend ge t away
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