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SHAFTS OF LIGHT
B
ecause Santa Barbara Island is only one square mile in size, I was
fearful I might miss it altogether. With its high point at just over
600 feet on the south side and the 300-foot-tall sea stack, Sutil Island
a quarter-mile further south, I was putting all my faith into the beacon
on the northern tip of Santa Barbara Island as I was still an unknown
distance away. The difference makers were the full moon and a bright
southerly star that lined up perfectly with my compass heading.
After stopping momentarily to fiddle with my paddling leash, I
looked up to see what looked like Sutil Island. I frantically searched
for Santa Barbara Island next to it, but I wasn’t seeing it because
it was cloaked in fog except on its northern tip where I found the
flashing light tower. The island was also enhanced by beaming
shafts of moonlight. I was still about eight miles northwest of the
island. Due to some stiff southerly current and those uneven seas, it
took more than two hours to reach the Landing Cove.
When I climbed up the ladder and onto the upper deck of the
dock, it felt like the dock was moving. That’s what 17 hours and 52
miles of nonstop kayaking will do to you. During the entire ordeal, I
was driven by hope that I’d find the island in the dark. Fortunately,
the beacon that was turned on some 90 years ago continues to burn
brightly, and this weary kayaker found his island solace.
The best way to get to Santa Barbara Island is through Island Packers, the
only ferry concession that accesses all the islands in the National Park. It’s
a three-hour boat ride to the island. Call 805-642-1393, www.islandpackers.
com. For guided kayak tours around Santa Barbara Island, contact Channel
Islands Outfitters, 805/899-4925, www.channelislandso.com.
FAR
FLUNG
TRAVEL
98
winter
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spr ing