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Dominating the Sausalito headlands is the Inn at Cavallo Point,
the former 1940’s Army barracks that has been transformed into an
upscale inn and restaurant. Here, Chef
Joseph Humphrey
, formerly of
Meadowood’s elegantly rustic restaurant in Napa, attracts the cogno-
scenti.
L’Auberge Carmel
It is now Sunday morning, and intermittent rain makes us reluctant
to leave our cozy European inn, but we were looking forward to the dra-
matic seascapes to be found in Carmel and Big Sur, just two-and-a-half
hours south.
For the hotel, Sherry scoured the Provencal countryside in France for
antiques, in some cases, snapping up items just ahead of Ralph Lauren,
who was also in pursuit of similar items. Artisans from Paso and Santa
Barbara were engaged to recreate original designs as needed. In our suite,
we found wrought iron lamps adapted from vintage stable-door handles.
An arresting articulated horse from France dominates a table in the library,
and antique coach-lights illuminate gents’ and ladies’ rooms.
the bar’s wine list strongly champions Paso’s premium wines. Thursday eve-
nings, the hotel offers a chance to click goblets with area wine-makers.
Contributing to the romance of the hostelry is the hotel’s horse,
Chester, who ferries guests to and from local restaurants. The horse has
become something of a beloved town character. Adding to the hotel’s at-
tractions is Paso’s proximity to Hearst Castle, just 45 minutes away, offer-
ing one the perfect beginning (or ending) to a Euro-styled getaway.
Views from an Urban Yacht
Our base for exploring San Francisco is a few minutes across the
bay at Inn Above Tide in Sausalito. Smart, urbane and comfortable, the
hotel offers water views from each of its twenty-nine small suites. We
could easily be in a small hotel in Amsterdam, or off the Grande Place in
Brussels, particularly after a fireside continental breakfast that includes a
croissant that could have come directly from a bakery on the Left Bank
of Paris.
A pleasant bike ride (or short drive) across the Golden Gate Bridge
leads to a stunning municipal golf course or, as in our case, a visit to the
imposing Legion of Honor Art Museum. On view through June is “Artis-
tic Luxury,” a rare collection of original designs from Tiffany, Lalique, and
Fabergé.
In Sausalito, we dined at Piccolo Teatro, a low-key place that features
small plates and good wine. No worries about the evening chill. Heaters
and warm lap blankets are cheerfully provided at outside tables.
50
spr ing
|
summer
Hotel Cheval in Paso Robles was carefully restored by Sherry and
Robert Gilson, a Montecito couple
weekend getaway
The cobblestone courtyard off the lobby suggests a small French
equestrian village. Cozy areas include three stone hearths with wood-
burning fireplaces. Each room is named for a celebrated racehorse. We
learn that Highflyer, the 1774 steed after which our room is named, was
the greatest stallion of his era.
At four o’clock, local denizens and travelers alike drift into the Pony
Club Bar, with its horseshoe-shaped French zinc bar, to share convivial con-
versation over a bottle of Zinfandel and small bites. As one would expect,